24-Hrs in Todos Santos

 

After an hour drive from Cabo San Lucas, you’ll find yourself surrounded with bougainvilleas, palm groves, beautiful colonial style buildings and plenty of art galleries, restaurants and shops.

Twice abandoned due to epidemics and severe drought, Todos Santos found its place in Baja California as a popular tourist destination until 1980’s. Ultimately gaining the title of “Pueblo Mágico” (Secretary of Tourism’s acknowledgement to towns that preserve their cultural heritage and history), and becoming the home of famous and emerging artists.

Normally, beach cities are magnets to heavy partying, fast-food chains and humongous all-inclusive resorts, but not Todos Santos. Thankfully, this little place (takes half an hour to walk through it) has kept its colorful and cultural town-ish vibe.

I’ll be honest, I don’t think this is “one of the most appealing towns in all of Mexico”, as Lonely Planet suggests in its introduction to Todos Santos. But, I agree, it’s certainly Baja’s best, and with the most favorable climate. Just go before it turns into little Cabo.

 

Highlights for a day in Todos Santos

• Breakfast at La Esquina

Local’s favorite. Take a menu, order at the cash register, find a nice table and enjoy your meal. It has such a relaxing ambient that you’ll end up staying longer. Don’t forget to try their delicious chilaquiles and banana hot cakes.

Every Wednesday, from 9am to 12pm, it houses the ‘Farmer’s Market’, where locals sell handicrafts and organic products. We were told the handmade bread is a must.

Where: in the corner where Calle Horizonte and Av. Gral. Topete meet.

 

• Art Shopping

It depends on what you are looking for, but for us, La Sonrisa de la Muerte had the most original and quirky artwork. Perfect if you are looking for one of a kind souvenirs (they also have t-shirts, cards, notebooks and tote bags). Prices were acceptable, but vary according to the artist and the number of print.

Plus, Saskia, (she and her boyfriend own the store) is great and incredibly talented. While we talked she was stamping the tote bag you see in the pic.

Where: in the intersection of Calle Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla and Heróico Colegio Militar.

 

• Store hopping

Keep in mind that almost all the Mexican crafts you see in stores aren’t local, and because they bring them from Puebla, Guerrero or Chiapas, they‘ll be ten times more expensive (no exaggeration, here). Also, be aware that prices are heavily raised for foreigners. Even we, as Mexicans, were given the cost in dollars, and it was impossible to get a fair deal.

Make sure you head to the end of Juarez road, just when it becomes highway, and buy some local sweets, like: empanadas with cajeta, jamoncillos (dulce de leche of various flavors) and zorrillo (dulce de leche with ricotta cheese).

 

• Early happy-hour

Walk to México Gourmet, a mezcal galore. Jaime Pedraza, the owner, is a master mezcalier that can guide you through the different types and find your perfect match. Ask for the tastings: 1 for $25 mxn, or 5 for $100 mxn. You can also get small bottles to gift your friends and family.

Where: Calle Hidalgo, between Calle Centenario and Calle Licenciado Benito Juárez. Next to ‘El Tecolote Bookstore’

 

• Turtle releasing

Todos Santos’ turtles used to lay their eggs in Los Cabos, but began to migrate north due to the environmental impact from big hotel chains, travelers and locals. Unfortunately, the dangers up north are the low temperatures that don’t allow the eggs to develop.

Tortugueros Las Playitas is a non-profit organization that has a recovery program, especially for the Leatherback specie that’s on the verge of extinction, where they relocate the nests into a Greenhouse to give them the warmth they need to be born. According to their tables, they have improved the number of hatchlings.

Follow them on Facebook for releasing dates. If they post at noon that they have hatchlings, head to Las Tunas Sanctuary at five o’clock in the afternoon and watch the release of Olive Ridley, Black or Leatherback turtles.

It lacks organization, so ask to go inside the Greenhouse and make as many questions as you like. They are happy to answer them.

Where: look it up in Google Maps as Tortugueros Las Playitas A.C, Todos Santos. You can park in the beach, almost next to their Greenhouse. You’ll see other cars there.

 

 

• Sunset at Playa Cachora

If there’s no turtle releasing, drive to ‘Posada La Poza’ and turn right just before the dead end in front of the hotel. Then, go through the palm grove, turn left at the intersection and park your car there.

It’s a beautiful and lonely spot to see the sunset. You’ll perceive absolute silence, until you approach the ocean and the mighty waves block all your thoughts. During whale season, you can see their mist a couple of meters from the shore (take your binoculars to see them up close).

 

• Dinner at Miguel’s Restaurant

Nice tropical cabaña with palm roof. Order seafood, their specialty. Enchiladas and mole lack seasoning, but aren’t bad. Prices are okay.

Plan your dinner at eight o’clock, because most restaurants close at nine. Only two bars are open until early morning.

Where: in the corner of Carretera Federal 19 (main road that crosses Todos Santos) and Calle Rangel.

 

Have you been to Todos Santos? We’d love to hear about your favorite places and activities.