A good combo of places, ranging from 650 b.C mural paintings to a new artificial town that simulates a Tuscan village, that can be easily added to your itinerary for Mexico City. It only takes 1.30 hrs to get there and you won’t see something like this anywhere else.
Cacaxtla
An interesting archaeological site –now covered with a metallic structure for preservation purposes– that dates back to 600 b.C., and belongs to one of the most important societies to develop in Mesoamerica.
What sets Cacaxtla apart are its one of a kind mural paintings with vibrant colors that depict the social, cultural and ideological systems and beliefs of those who lived here. Plus, the advanced notion of architecture that’s seen through the numerous buildings surrounding the main plaza, equipped with different types of rooms and patios according to the ranking.
Curious fact: while working in ‘El Palacio’ (first space to your left), archeologists found 200 children burials –most likely a sacrifice made to commemorate a new construction stage.
Xochitécatl
Another archaeological site just a couple of meters away from Cacaxtla. These pyramids were a cult to Tlazoltéotl, goddess of fertility and representation of Mother Earth.
Although the construction is not as splendorous as Teotihuacan, Chichén Itza, Calakmul and other pyramids around Mexico, the clay pieces found in the premises during excavation, and now shown in its little (and very neglected) museum, are worth it. Tons of beautiful and intricate designed figurines of women with holes in their stomach or genitalia, and a baby stored inside or poking out from the area.
On a clear day, from the top of the pyramids you’ll get to see an incredible view of the volcanoes Popocatépetl, Iztaccíhuatl and Malinche.
Val’Quirico
A residencial/comercial project that tried to simulate a Tuscan Village, and succeeded. It’s beautiful. There’s even a group of troubadours, all dressed up like in Medieval times, that go around the main plaza singing an odd combination of Spanish and Mexican classics.
Here you can find art galleries, quirky shops and cafes. But the true highlight of this place is the amazing restaurants; choosing comes down to your cravings at that moment.
Our favorite is ‘La Catrina del Zócalo’, delicious Mexican food and great ambience. Their chiles en nogada (served only from July till September) are magnificent, one of the best we’ve tasted –and we’ve tried a lot–. Also order their Aztec dessert: churros with blue corn ice cream and amaranth sprinkles.
Extend the trip to Tlaxcala
If you want to visit some more or it gets late and you need a place to sleep, head to Tlaxcala and stay at Posada San Francisco, right in the center of the city.
Some things you can do here:
- Eat in one of the restaurants under de arches, also known as ‘Los Portales’; locals hang here, especially for breakfast. Good prices and the chance to immerse yourself in the culture and the town’s life.
- Visit the ‘Museo Regional de Tlaxcala’ (Regional Museum of Tlaxcala) and head to the second floor. Here you’ll see many pre-Hispanic and Hispanic vestiges that show how Spaniards and Tlaxcaltecas came to form an alliance and ultimately defeat the great Aztec empire. If it weren’t for the hatred between these two tribes –and a 60-year economic block imposed by Tenochtitlan–, the Spanish Conquest would never have happened; they were largely outnumbered.
- Try some ‘pulque bread’ in Arita Paguini, a shop run by Isabel and her husband. The bread is made by leaving the dough to rest in pulque for 12 hours –a recipe handed by her grandmother, but that dates back to 400 years ago, approximately. Our favorite was the one filled with piloncillo. The tasting of bread and pulque is free of charge, but don’t leave empty handed. Get a big loaf of bread or some of their amazing ‘muéganos’.
- There’s a local market on weekends in the central plaza, but, to be honest, it’s not really worth trying to fit it into your schedule.
Useful information
Map
We’ve pinpointed all the sites mentioned above on to this map, to save you some time. Have a great trip!
Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl
- On Saturdays and Sundays there’s a walking path up the hill that connects Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl. The rest of the week you need a car to get to either side; also recommended if you don’t want to burn all your energy on the steep road.
- The entrance fee ($55 mxn) for Cacaxtla also includes the one for Xochitécatl. You just have to visit both on the same day and show the torn ticket to the guard.
- Don’t forget to visit their in site museums first.
Val’Quirico
- There’s only one loft in Airbnb and one hotel: Hotel Canaria. But since there’s nothing more to do, except for hanging out at the restaurants, we suggest you head back to Mexico City or continue your journey to Tlaxcala.
Caution
We sound like a broken record, but it’s best not to drive at night. At least that’s a big part of how we’ve managed to avoid unpleasant situations.
