Chapultepec Castle is the reflection of Mexico’s intricate history and fusion between its pre-Hispanic and Hispanic culture.
This hill that now holds a panoramic view of one of the largest cities in the world and a clear image of the opulence and architecture brought by the Spanish in colonial times, was once a land surrounded by lakes, springs, mountains and kilometers of forest, and an important Mexica religious temple.
‘Climbing’ the Grasshopper Hill
The minute you arrive to Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest), you’ll notice on the top of the hill, known in Náhuatl as Grasshopper Hill, the splendorous Chapultepec Castle.
Although it may seem like a very long walk, it’s nowhere near the kilometers and steepness of Montjuïc Castle, in Barcelona, for example. If you go on a slow pace and enjoy the beautiful views of the forest along the way, you won’t have any trouble getting there (supposing you have zero physical condition like me– 10-minutes, approx.).
Keep in mind that the walk can be a little bit steep and in a cobblestone road, so make sure you wear comfortable shoes. Also, near the ‘Kiosko’, before making your way up to the castle, buy a small bottle of water, because from then on there will be no more stalls and you’ll need to stay hydrated. Trust us. No food or water is allowed inside the castle, so make sure to drink it on your way up.
The tall black wrought iron fences will give you the perfect royal welcome; you won’t feel at all in Mexico. To your right, make a line to buy your ticket and be patient; unfortunately there’s only one counter available.
Tip: if you have a student or teacher ID, or you are 60+ years old, you can skip the line and enter for free.
The castle
All the information provided inside the castle is in Spanish. So, to truly enjoy the experience, take a few minutes at the entrance to absorb the majesty of the castle, and then go inside the first building (bottom floor) and head to the shop to buy a guide in English. It has an inconvenient design, but offers great information and a map at the back that leads you to every room with its proper explanation. Plus, it only costs $53mxn.
The castle’s history dates back to 1785, when the viceroys Matías and Bernardo de Gálvez began the construction of their retreat mansion, which they never lived. Later on, it suffered some changes to serve as the headquarters of Mexico’s Military Academy; survived the invasion of North America, and during the French Intervention became Maximilian of Habsburg and his wife Carlota of Belgium –emperors of Mexico– residence.
After gaining our independence, it was used as the presidential home and headquarters for the government; until it became a museum in 1944.
Rooms you can’t miss: Carriage Room, Lions’ Staircase, Dining Room, Carlota’s Bedchamber, Stained Glass Gallery & Ambassadors Reception Hall.
A privileged spot
When Hernán Cortés defeated Tenochtitlán and began to distribute the conquered territories, he wanted to keep Chapultepec to himself. But, King Charles I of Spain said it was to be used as a recreational facility for the Mexican people. Therefore, making it the oldest public park on the continent.
The views from the balconies are a complete contrast. The immediate surroundings of the forest give you a pre-hispanic sense as to why Cuauhtémoc, the last Mexica tlatoani (ruler), wouldn’t give up the territory –Hernán Cortés destroyed part of the aqueduct they’ve built to supply the valley of water, forcing them to abandon it (you can see some remains from the first balcony you come across).
Then, the façade of the castle, the beautiful gardens, the decoration and the stained-glass windows transport you to the colonial era and the later ruling of the Habsburg monarchy.
But, if you look ahead, old and modern skyscrapers, which cover the view of the valley that once made the hill so appealing, now surround the Chapultepec Castle. And if you follow the big avenue (Paseo de la Reforma) that divides the forest, you’ll get a glance of a pilar with a golden angel on top: our independence monument (Ángel de la Independencia), which meant a new beginning for Mexico.
Useful information
How to get there: take line 1 to ‘Chapultepec’ station, or line 7 to ‘Auditorio’ station.
Entrance: $70mxn + $30mxn per camera.
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 9am-5pm. Closed on Mondays.
Not allowed: Tripods, selfie sticks, water, food, chewing gum and markers; there’s a storage past the entrance. If you have your traveling backpacks with you or are carrying heavy bags, there are lockers at the bottom of the hill.
Time needed: 2-hours aprox., at a slow pace.
Important: hydrate well and eat something (if you’re hungry), before heading up to the castle. Vendors are only allowed on lower grounds.
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