Discovering Cobá

 

We get a lot of questions as to why we decided to become travel bloggers specialized in Mexico, and this archaeological site sums up our reasons perfectly… Before our last trip to Quintana Roo we had never heard about Cobá. We’re not proud, because as Mexicans we should know all about our country (or if not all, at least its major sites), right? But well, that’s the embarassing truth.

Between “so much to see”, “so little time”, and finding other unknown countries more appealing to travel to at the moment, we realized that we had been to many places in Europe and Asia –hell, we even spent a month hopping around some of Thailand and Cambodia’s ruins–, but we had never visited one of the most important Mayan cities (in our very own country)! And, to our surprise, finding out that Cobá is probably our favorite archaeological site in the region…!

Not to say that we won’t travel abroad anymore, but it was an eye opening moment: we hadn’t seen all that our beautiful country has to offer and we were searching elsewhere what we had right under our noses…

 

Taking a closer look

Before the rising of Chichén Itzá, Cobá was one of the biggest, most important and most powerful Mayan cities in the region. Imagine 70 squared kilometers of dense jungle, the tallest pyramid in the peninsula, two ball-game courtyards, five lakes that were essential to its survival, hundreds of carved steles with Coba’s history, tons of temples and housing complexes, and over 50 roads connecting the city.

There are many ways to get around this archaeological site, but renting a bike and discovering it by yourself is by far the best. We are not the most skilled bikers, so you can imagine the giggles while trying not to kill ourselves and others…

 

The first settlement registered is from 100 b.C, but its golden age, when most of the buildings were built, was between 800-1000 a.C.

 

Gradually they took over neighbor cities, until they held complete control of the region and became one of the most powerful cities.

 

These roads, called sacbés (meaning white roads), connected not only the buildings inside the city, they also served as a line of communication between Cobá and other regions. The largest sacbé discovered extends for 100km to another site very close to Chichén Itzá.

 

This is one of the two fields where they used to play their version of football, known in Spanish as ‘juego de pelota’. The rings on the sides were the goal nets, and instead of using their feet, they controlled the ball with their hips. Historians differ on whether it was the winners or the losers who were sacrificed and offered to the gods.

 

There are 34 carved steles that reflect the history and worldview of Coba’s Mayans. The most preserved one stands in front of Nohoch-Mul pyramid and dates back to 780 a.C. But, the most famous one is inside the ‘Macanxoc Group’, which describes December 21, 2012 as the “end of the world”, or to them: the end of their calendar and the start of a new era.

 

Let this be your last stop. The famous Nohoch-Mul Pyramid– the tallest of the entire peninsula with 42 meters and hundreds of steps.

 

If it’s not yet closed to the public (there were plans to stop the deterioration in 2018), climb up and admire the view of the jungle. Steps are irregular and in bad shape, but be adventurous, move carefully and don’t look down!

 

Why is it our favorite archaeological site?

Do you ever feel like popular archaeological sites, like Teotihuacan, Tulum or Chichen Itzá, have this air of ‘large scale maquettes’, perfectly adapted to welcome visitors? Agree. They’re absolutely stunning nonetheless, but they lose their ‘realness’ in the process…

Cobá, on the other hand, despite not having jaw-dropping buildings like other sites in the region, still preserves it’s essence and really transports you back in time. Riding across the jungle felt like we were mimicking the Mayan footsteps. As if we could sense their presence.

Plus, it has way less visitors. And the few who go concentrate in Nohoch-Mul Pyramid, so you’ll feel like you have the rest of the place to yourself.

 

While you ride/walk down the sacbés, picture this: less than 5% of the site has been explored.

 

 

Small (hippie) tip

If you are coming from Tulum, have your eyes open for these lovely dream catchers on the side of the road. We bought a big one for $300 mxn and looks lovely above our bed!

 

 

 



 

Useful information

  • Cobá is 40 minutes from Tulum.
  • We stayed at this hotel in Tulum. Nice and affordable!
  • Entrance fee $70 mxn + parking lot $50 mxn
  • You can get around Cobá by foot, riding a bike ( all-day bike rental: $50 mxn) or hiring a taxi-bike (1.5 hrs for $125 mxn).
  • Don’t worry about the bikes. We were nervous at first and didn’t want to take our eyes off of them, but, trust us, as long as you leave them on the designated areas, no one will take them. Not even ‘by accident’.
  • If you want, there are guides at the entrance (must haggle the price, because they’re crazy expensive). If not, there’s information available in English in almost every building.
  • Wear comfortable shoes! Especially if you plan on climbing Nohoch-Mul pyramid.
  • We went in November and had some small showers. Don’t leave the site if it happens, they’re usually quick and light. If it gets worse, just take cover for a couple of minutes. By the time you finish looking around, the heat will have dried your clothes.

 

 

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