Not your typical Cabo

 

Los Cabos has become the go to place for A-list celebrities and spring breakers. But, is it really worth the hype?

What is commonly known as Los Cabos or Cabo or Los Caros (caro= expensive), as locals refer to it, and considered a place of excess, is really a merge of two completely different cities.

While Cabo San Lucas has built its reputation around nightlife, 24-hour partying, extreme water sports and excessive drinking– just the kind of things spring breakers look for–; San José del Cabo attracts visitors for its chilled cobblestone streets bustled with art galleries and small restaurants that pair their kitchen with blues, jazz or rock live performances.

So, break the stigma and get to know the other side of Cabo with our top pick:

 

Cabo Pulmo

Cabo Pulmo became a National Marine Park in 1995 as an effort to protect the only coral reef in the Gulf of California, and later was recognized as a Natural World Heritage Site. So, forget the snorkeling they offer you near El Arco and dive into the highlight of Los Cabos.

During this snorkeling tour you’ll be able to see the coral reef and different species of fish, including a school of jureles. Plus, a chance to swim with sea lions and turtles.

 

Flora Farms

It’s a ten-acre organic farm in San José del Cabo that has a restaurant, various boutique shops and a residential compound.

I’ll be honest. The compound is a very snobbish, pretend you only eat organic food from your own garden, play cricket and only hang out with influential people, sort of project. But, I can’t deny it is a beautiful property.

We made a reservation for breakfast (dinners are booked months in advance) and had a lovely time, everything we ate was delicious. Keep in mind you are paying for the experience and surroundings, rather than the $375 mxn limited buffet.

I would recommend it for drinks, especially. We saw people ordering a Bloddy Mary, which came in a spectacular presentation.

 

El Merkado

A trendy take on a traditional food market in San José del Cabo. In this two story industrial looking venue you can find stalls selling chocolate tortillas, mezcal, bbq ribs, seafood, smoothies, tamales, chilaquiles, ice creams, sweet bread, sushi, pozole, roasted chicken, and much more.

We decided to eat a Tlayuda in Oaxaca’s stall. It was de-li-ci-ous, although I would recommend sharing it– it’s humongous.

 

Art Walk

The Art District of San José del Cabo is filled with galleries that open daily from 10:00am to 8:00pm. But once a week, independent artists and some galleries take their paintings to the town’s plaza and sit there to sell and engage with the visitors in a more casual environment, while shops and restaurants offer free wine.

Although we didn’t buy any paintings, we met incredible and talented young artists. It’s a great experience and the perfect way to feel the cultural vibe of this side of Cabo.

Be aware: after 20 years of holding the Art Walk on Thursdays, they changed it to Tuesdays from 5-9pm.

Los Arbolitos

Once you reach Cabo Pulmo, follow the signs that say ‘Los Arbolitos’. In 5km you’ll reach a beautiful secluded beach with palapas, perfect to lie down and admire the vibrant colors of the ocean with no one around.

Since it’s a private property, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee of $40mxn per person. This will give you access to the parking lot in front of the beach, the palapas, restrooms and showers.

Don’t forget your flip flops, because there’s a lot of dead coral and broken shells in the sand. And pack some lunch, because there are no stores or restaurants around.

 

Mercado Orgánico

On Saturdays (from 9am to 3pm) this local market in San José del Cabo offers a good variety of organic food (raw and prepared), hand made toiletries, home décor and hippie looking souvenirs.

If you go, eat in ‘Las Cazuelas del Don’. It’s a family business that serves delicious casseroles with various ingredients, both for vegetarians and meat lovers. We loved the food, the owner’s great service and the fact that it reflects the flavorful and charismatic Mexican culture. They also have a proper restaurant in the city.

 

Las Guacamayas

Good tacos al pastor are difficult to find, especially outside central Mexico. Well, difficult for Nils and I who are tacos junkies. But, Las Guacamayas in San José del Cabo didn’t disappoint.

Their large menu and reasonable prices make it a good option for late dinner. Plus, the décor and Mariachi add extra flavor to the dishes; just don’t seat next to the speakers like we did.

 

Playa Las Palmas

Want a public, quiet and lonely beach, without jet skis and flyboards everywhere? Head to Playa Las Palmas.

The view from there is impressive, tons of resorts one next to another and their beachfronts full of parasols and sunbeds.

If you have a car, take Paseo Malecón San José, toward Club Campestre San José and turn left in Bahía de Palmas. You can park on the street and walk to the beach.

 

Revolución

In San José, visit the latest restaurant of Benito Molina, a well-known Mexican chef, whose story is as fascinating as his cuisine.

After studying economy, Benito realized his true passion was in the kitchen. So, he decided to take a job as a cook’s helper on a tuna fishing boat in the shores of La Paz, Baja California. From there, his love for seafood grew and made him a big referent in Baja’s cuisine.

If you go, sit on the terrace. And to truly appreciate Benito’s cuisine, stick to seafood; the waiters give excellent recommendations.

 

El Arco

In Cabo San Lucas, go to Playa El Médano and take a tour to the tip of Baja, also known as Land’s End or The Window to the Pacific.

Most people take a two storey boat with music and free drinks, but you should grab a ‘panga’ (local word for small boat). This way you’ll be able to get close to the rock formations and make a stop at Playa del Amor (Lover’s Beach) & Playa del Divorcio (Divorce Beach).

This sand stretch in the ‘middle’ of the ocean, lets you enjoy the Sea of Cortés on one side (the lover’s side) and the more treacherous waters of the Pacific on the other (the divorce side).

Bring your lunch, rent a parasol for $150mxn, pull out your towels and enjoy the beach for at least two hours. Then, go snorkeling on a place near by that has plenty of fish for such a small radius.

 

So… are Los Cabos worth the hype? We can’t really tell. That is for you to discover.

 

 

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Useful information

 

Los Cabos

• Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo are separated only by a 20 minutes drive, through a highway filled with luxurious resorts. Taxis are expensive, so rent a car instead.
• If you want a more peaceful environment to rest, stay in San José del Cabo. Otherwise, drunk people will be shouting outside your bedroom.

Cabo Pulmo

• Google maps will suggest two routes: one that goes along the coast and another one that uses the Transpeninsular Highway. Although the first one seems closer in kilometers, it can take up to eight hours on a very bumpy dirt/sand road. The second one is only 1.40hrs away with just the last 12km of dirt road.
• We drove all the way up to the shore, parked our car and booked the tour in the big palapa at the end with a sign that reads ‘Snorkel Tours’. The $900mxn per person included the snorkeling equipment, wetsuits, a snack and four stops in 2.30hrs.
• Tours leave at 10am and 12pm. But, keep in mind that wind gets stronger at noon, which can cut your trip short. We couldn’t swim with the turtles because of this.
• Try the snack they give you. It’s a tortilla with fresh cheese and honey. A typical dessert of Baja California.
• Only use organic sunblock, and rinse your hair products before getting in.
• Contact: EcoAdventures Cabo Pulmo
  Juan B. Castro Murillo
  Phone: +52 (624) 157 4072
  [email protected]
  cabopulmoecoadventures.com

Flora Farms

• When making the reservation, ask for the farm tour schedule. A must. When we went it was at 10:30am, 4:30pm and 5:00pm.
• They offer a cooking class on Tuesdays and Fridays for $75 US dollars, which includes a farm tour, a cocktail and lunch. Reserve your spot at: [email protected]
• Reservations for breakfast/lunch/dinner
  Phone: +52 (624) 355 4564/ +52 (624) 157 8951
  [email protected]

El Arco

• If you have a car, head to Playa El Médano and park for free in the City Club that’s on Av. Del Pescador. There’s also a parking lot near the beach that costs $450mxn for 24hrs.
• For The Arch tour we chose Mr. Pingüi Tours. Their stand is right in front of the entrance to Playa El Médano. Teresa González: cel. 624 198 6363, [email protected]
• The tour costs $150mxn per person for the boat with crystal bottom, which includes a 45 minutes ride along the Arch and one stop, either to Playa del Amor or to a snorkeling place near by. We wanted to do both, so we payed an extra fee of $50mxn.
• The water is freezing cold, so if you are snorkeling, rent a wetsuit in the cabaña next to Mr. Pingüi’s stall. They ask for an ID and $200mxn.
• Be careful when getting off the boat in Playa del Amor. The strong waves push the boat out, so you have to move quicky and basically jump and run before you get hit by it. Also be sure to carry your phone and bags high enough, so they don’t get wet.